A good day today.
We only got into Hossegor late yesterday afternoon after a day-and-a-half of flying between LA and Bordeaux, via London. The family settled into our hotel, which is a really cool set-up. We stay here most years, along with Kieren and Damo and their families, and it’s cool that all the families get the time to hang out.
I got up early this morning. Too early. Pretty heavily jetlagged and I was doing crocodile death rolls in bed at 4am this morning, wide awake on California time. I got down to the beach about 6.30 and it was so dark I couldn’t see a thing. I could hear the high tide shorebreak and knew there was a bit of swell around. When we eventually paddled out a half hour later it was actually pretty good. The tide was dropping and there were some sick sections out there, mainly on the left off the contest bank.
I drew Kai Otton again for about the hundredth time this year, as well as a French wildcard surfer who’d got in because Kerrsy hurt himself in the freesurf yesterday and had to withdraw. I knew the lefts would suit Otto, but I was also pretty frothing on them, as apart from Tahiti I reckon I’ve caught two lefts in heats all year. I got a good one early and got in a bit of rhythm, and there were a couple of turns in that heat I was really happy with. Stoked to get the win and get a day off.
There’s gonna be plenty of swell still around tomorrow, so I’m just gonna try and get a couple of freesurfs in. I’m just trying to surf as much as possible to get my surf stamina up.
Loving being back in France. Good food, good people and waves. I’ve always felt really comfortable here, and that really helps with your surfing.