15 foot shoreys today... 35 foot on the way. //Shorty

Whoah, here it comes. A pretty radical day on the North Shore… too big for Sunset this morning so the contest was called off, so the only place left was The Bay. There was a huge pack of guys on it, and you know why. Monday is supposed to be huge. Eddie huge. Maybe even too huge for the Eddie. Guys are calling it the biggest swell since 1969, and the way the buoys are looking they might be right… I wasn’t there in ’69 to compare. I’d be so stoked to watch the Eddie run… post up for the day and watch the whole thing. In the meantime I still got to surf my quarter at Sunset, which they’ll have to run tomorrow I guess cause Sunset will be 30 feet on Monday. A massive week of swell coming up… this is why we’re here in Hawaii.

And finally happy birthday to my beautiful wife. I’m so glad you’re here.