In an excerpt from Parko+Friends, Occy and J-Bay matriarch, Cheron Kraak talk about the early years of the contest here at J-Bay.

OCC

“Gordon [Merchant] first brought me here. He always talked so much about J-Bay cause he first came way back in the ‘70s when there were no houses here. He came here by ship. He said, “Occ, this place is unbelievable.” He’d already brought me up to the Goldy, and he said, “These right points are pretty good Occ, but I know another one I reckon is even better.” So he took me over and I met Cheron stayed at her house, the same place they’re still in today. I woke up on my first morning looked out the kitchen window and could not believe what I was seeing. It was smoking. It was cloudy, rainy and cold, and the waves were four-to-six feet and unbelievable with just a handful of guys out. Is this for real? I thought I was dreaming. I just fell in love with the place, the family and the house. I just loved staying there. The next year I had to go to Durban for the contest up there, the Gunston 500, and Cheron said to me, “Occ, if you don’t win that contest you can’t stay in the house.” That was all the incentive I needed. I won the contest and came straight back. I surfed extra hard in Durban and came back and stayed another two weeks. I remember I’d won the contest in Durban and come straight to J-Bay with my prizemoney. Thirteen thousand rand it was. There were no banks in J-Bay at the time and I remember Cheron’s husband, Ari told me we had to go to Humansdorp and put the money in the bank there. I came back the next year and went down to the bank to get my money out and it was closed down. I was freaking! I thought I’d lost all my money. I was pretty young and naïve in those days, and thought that if that branch had closed down my money was gone. Then someone told me they probably had another branch in Capetown and my money would be there.”

CHERON

“We were so in our own little world, our own little bubble, and I remember someone saying to me, “You know, you should have an international surf contest out here. Look at the waves.” So that was when we held the first Country Feeling Classic in ‘84. I mean, we didn’t advertise, it was so low-key the whole thing, and I remember someone said to me, “Is there going to be surf for your contest?” I said, “Of course there’s going to be surf!” I wasn’t sure about much else to do with it, but I knew there’d be waves. And it was held just over a weekend, there was no such thing as a waiting period in those days. I woke up the day of the contest and it was eight-foot.

Ari, the guy I was married to at the time, said to me Gordon Merchant from Billabong is here and he has this kid from Australia with him. I’d never heard of this kid before, he was just this little blond kid with a squeaky voice. But he paddled out there and just blazed, blew everyone out of the water. That kid was light years ahead of everyone, and he won the event. It was Occy, of course.

The following year was classic. Back in ’85, the following year, our event used to be held just before the Gunston in Durban. Occ had come over to South Africa early to stay with us, and he’d asked if he could come back and stay when he got back from Durban. I said, “If you win the Gunston you can come back and stay.” On the Sunday night I get this phone call. “Hey, Cheron, it’s Occ. I won the Gunston… can I come back and stay?” And that was it; I don’t think he’s missed a year since. When the kids were young he’d hang out and play with them and look after them and fight with them. I’d make him eat his vegetables because he was still so young and I’d say, “Don’t forget to brush your teeth, Occy.” It was like having another kid around.

But he was all time. Occ was so much fun. And even when he had his wobbly times he’d come back here and hang out for six weeks. He’d arrive here with a suitcase, and the suitcase would have no clothes in it. “Occ, where are your clothes?” “Oh, they were dirty so I left them at home.” Then he’s leaving to go to America and I go, “Occ, have you got any money?” and he pulls 10 rand out of his pocket.

Occ was the first guy to come and stay with us, and then the floodgates opened. He was the first of many. Most of the guys were young and didn’t have much of a clue about where they were, so this became their home while they were here. The town was way smaller and there was no restaurant here on the point back then, so all these guys would hang out and eat here. It sort of became the place to hang out for all those guys. Every year I see the guys who have stayed here and they’re still the same.

Joel was just one of the wildcards the first year he came here in 1999. Joel arrived and he was going to stay on the corner at Crystal Cove. I’ve seen them before they’ve checked in and gone, “Why don’t you guys just stay up here?” We had the little room underneath the house, and so he came with Dean Morrison and Shagga. They were still like little kids, so young and very green. They needed feeding that’s for sure. They were pretty well behaved the first time they were here, or at least were pretty good at keeping it from me. They stayed here a few days and he was suppose to go back and stay down the point and Joel has gone, “I’m not going anywhere. Can’t I please stay here?” I couldn’t get rid of him. We became quite close quite quickly. This is a very family oriented house, so they bond to the house and I became the mother figure and they keep all the naughty things they do away from the mother just like they do at home.

I remember the excitement of it when Joel won the contest that first year. He kept winning heat after heat. He was part of the family up here. He was always so kind to my kids so he became part of the family, and to have one of the family winning the contest was huge for us. But the way he surfed was phenomenal. We talked about it for years. He just went out here and surfed and it was clear he wasn’t even that interested in the contest. It’s like the contest wasn’t even on, he was just out there surfing away by himself, flying along, having a ball just being Joel. There was no pressure on him and he was so relaxed, and he’s such a beautiful natural surfer.

Parko, Occy and Luke Egan all have a special relationship with J-Bay. While Joel’s been coming here for 12 years, Luke and Occ first came here in the mid-’80s, and all three have won major contests on the fabled righthand point. In an excerpt from Joel’s book, Parko+Friends, all three talk about what J-Bay means to them…

Luke: I think it was 20 years at least since I first came to J-Bay. When was it?
Joel: How long have you had your block of land?
Luke: I think I won the block of land here back in ’87.
Occy: That was the Dream Sequence contest you won, hey Louie?
Luke: Yeah, I’d made the quarters of the Country Feeling contest the week before and they had the Dream Sequence contest the following week and first prize was a block of land. That was a Derek Hynd creation, the Dream Sequence. It was invitation only and the waves were pumping too. I was here for two weeks and I don’t think I rode a wave under four-foot the whole time, stayed on my 6’6” for two weeks.
Occy: You still got that block of land?
Luke: Yeah, it’s just up on the hill behind us. It’s the last one left on the street with nothing on it.
Occy: It’s the last one left in J-Bay!
Luke: I thought about selling it a few years ago, then travelling around Africa until the money runs out. But I just felt like if I sold it, it would be like going to Cash Converters and selling one of your trophies. So I’ve never done it. I still drive past it every year I’m over here and check it out.
Occy: I remember the first year I came here and won the contest, the Country Feeling Classic. Eighty-four, wasn’t it? As soon as they blew the hooter a 20-wave set hit and everyone was just freaking out. At eight in the morning the swell hit and it was corduroy eight-to-10 feet all day. I remember Tom Carroll and I doing crossovers out there after our heat one day. It dropped for the final, four feet, and I beat Hans Hedemann in the best-of-three in a blue wetsuit with pink sleeves and yellow gussets.
Luke: And you wore booties!
Occy: I did! And I can’t surf in booties! We’ve all won an event here, yeah. Never thought about that.
Luke: I think we’ve been lucky to have been channelled toward this place. Getting that feeling of what this place is about from the start. That’s what’s made it a special place from the start for us. Instead of turning up on your own you’re living with the family on the top of the point and you feel welcomed to the place.
Occy: Yeah, it’s really special. Louie’s right. You’ve got family here and you feel like a part of the place because the most respected family in the place treats you like one of their own.

Mitty at Pipe last year. //Hilton/Billabong

An extract from Joel’s book, Parko+Friends…

“So my cousin Mitchell comes to Hawaii with us. Then, on the biggest day of the Pipe season so far, wants to paddle out and have a look. “Mitty,” I told him, “stay on the sand. Don’t go over onto the reef. Stay on the green, not the black.” It’s a fine line, but even though he’s only 13 he’s a good little surfer and he’s been out in some decent-sized waves, so I knew he’d be fine. Occ was out there too and I asked him to keep an eye on him. Occ’s paddled over and told Mitty to keep wide, which of course just made him paddle in deeper. I look out and Mitchell’s sitting deepest at Backdoor, the disobedient little pup that he is. I just didn’t want him making same mistake I made the first time I went to Hawaii; paddling for a small one and chasing it all the way in, missing it, and then wear the set of the day on the head. I did it that at Sunset when I was 14 and the biggest wave I’d ever seen broke on my head. I didn’t really coach Mitty in Hawaii. When he’s that age there’s no point trying to coach him, you just point the kid in the right direction and let him go. There’s no point in telling him how to ride a wave, that’s bullshit. Just let him do his own thing out there and let him mature as his own surfer, I reckon. That’s what Uncle Daryl, Mitchell’s dad, did with me. He never told me how to surf; he helped me more on land. That’s where the real lessons are learned.” – Joel

DESERT 09 from Joel Parkinson on Vimeo.

Ah, desert days. Last year Joel took his Sony Handycam up north for his trip to the Desert Lefts with Andy, Occ and Luke. The video above is what came back. That thing got a workout, eh?

Well, with the benevolence of jp.com knowing no boundaries, we’re now giving away the latest Sony HD upload bloggie camera to a friend of the site. The camera has a built in 270º rotating lens, and there’s a bonus 360º lens attachment should you require footage of your own frothing face fused into the blazing panoramic lineup you’re filming. The camera is lightweight, pocket-sized and has a built-in USB arm. It will be your new little best mate.

To be in with a chance, in the comments section below just describe for us in 28 words or less the one scene you’d live to film in 360º panorama. The most dreamy/inventive/funny/twisted entry, as judged by Joel, will win the camera. Sadly for our OS friends the contest is only for Australia, and closes on Thursday May 20.

We launched the new book the other night at Kirra. Such a fun night. Had a hundred of my close friends and family there at my mate Nick’s bar, Fresh, just across the road from Kirra. Had a few cheeky beers, but I think the girls ended up drinking more than the guys because there was a swell coming overnight and the guys didn’t want to get bent too out of shape. Mon’s cousin Holly wrote a poem for the night which was all-time, Big Trev took the stage for about two hours, I waffled for about 30 seconds and that was it… my book was launched. Hope you guys like it.

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