Posted by Parko in Photos, World Tour
The view from my backyard looking up to Supertubes. //Shorty
I feel like I’m back in a country where I feel comfortable. Brazil is such a full-on country, and to come from here to J-Bay it feels like my second home. I can’t really feel myself or feel relaxed in Brazil, whereas here, I could live here, I could do months here.
We’ve been doing a lot of flying. So sick of planes. We went Sydney-Joburg, Joburg-Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo-Florianopolis, then all the way back to Joburg then down to Port Elizabeth. But at least they’ve been mainly long flights. You just knock yourself out and go to sleep. Louie got crook from the flight back from Brazil. We were sitting 20 rows behind him and it was like a heatwave. I’m sitting with Bobby and he’s stripped down to his singlet and he’s all sweating. It was radically hot. Twenty rows in front and Louie has taken a couple of sleeping pills and knocked himself out. He wakes up hours later and his whole body has gone numb… he’s frozen solid! Couldn’t feel his hands or his feet. His section of the plane was freezing. Sure enough he gets to J-Bay and he’s crook as a dog. He gets on the lounge and stays there for three days, just floored him. He’s on the way back now. He’s set his bed up on the loungeroom floor and has been sitting there watching Top Gear and the cricket on telly.
We got a great little pad looking straight into the eye of the point at Supertubes. We’re not in the contest scene, but we’re aware of it cause its only a two-minute walk. It’s nice and chilled. Me, Occ, Wes and Louie are staying here, we’ve got a sick little barbie pit and we’ve been firing that up every night, having a braai every night, cooking a lot of dead animal, just living the African lifestyle.
My first surf on the point felt so good. So good. It was one-to-two foot J-Bay, pretty much just two or three guys out, pretty terrible, but it was still better than any wave I had in Brazil. It’s a way better shape, it’s faster down the line. I was enjoying going fast so much I wasn’t even really turning.
The sand out here is unbelievable at the moment. The best I’ve ever seen it. It’s very close to small Kirra or Greenmount. The point is set up perfect for guys like Mick and Dean. Deano really stood out in the freesurf the other day, got one amazing tube. I didn’t get too many, I broke my board, but just seeing Deano surf and seeing how comfortable he looked and he easy he made it look, it gave me a huge confidence boost. If it’s looking like home for them, then it’s like home for me.
Occ is so psyched for his heat with Curren. He was talking about it this morning. Curren pulled out the old, “I’ve got a sore back,” and I said, “Occ, maybe he’s trying to bluff you, but maybe you’ve got to be wary of the injured warrior.” Hopefully they get good waves. Maybe every day before the comp starts, for 15 minutes, they should just put Occ and Tom out there on their own. Like playing Hells Bells every morning at Bells Beach, just to get everyone psyched for what’s about to happen. Can you imagine how sick that would be, psyching up for your heat watching Occy and Curren surf? No one is ever going to get sick of watching those guys.
I’ve only had a few waves each surf, been taking it pretty easy. This morning I only got one barrel, did a little air on it. But that got me feeling like I’m back, reminding me that I know this wave. It’s a wave where I don’t need to spend a week or two to tune up on it. One good wave and it all comes flooding back; the shape, the speed of it, the way it breaks. You can get so comfortable and confident on it so quickly, more so than any other wave. Chopes, or Bells even, it takes a whole week at least, but here at J-Bay one good wave and you’re back in the groove.
