The groms have it too easy these days. Some of my first trips to Hawaii i would have only dreamed of staying right in front of Backdoor / Off The Wall.
I love snapping them into gear, especially when its 9am and they’re dead to the world.
It was thanksgiving day which meant a big feed was being prepared, had to work up an appetite and what better way to do it than a few barrels out the front.
I get alot of people asking questions through my twitter and my website so I thought why not answer a few by video. So in the downtime over the next week I am going to do just that.
Just drop whatever you want to ask in the comment section below and I will pick one each day to answer…
Look forward to seeing what you guys throw my way – Joel
I might not be He Man but he is definitely Wee Man!
I came in from my arvo surf and this wee little man was hanging out on my lawn checkin’ out the waves. Jason “Wee Man” Acuña’s a legend. The Jackass star was watching everyone surf, and when someone would do a turn he’d call a skate move on it, he was really funny.
We had some fun little waves today just out the front. It was only small but big enough to get going on some of them. Went for a nice Dinner at Lei Lei’s restaurant last night, had the good old ahi steak.
The forecast is saying Sunday this swell is suppose to hit at 11am. My heat at Haleiwa is 11:30. Let’s hope the forecast is right !!
Is it possible to have too many boards ? Well not in Hawaii.
I almost feel bad having so many, but you can never have enough boards over here. All it takes is one solid swell and you’ll come out the back of it down 4 or 5 boards before ya know it.
I’ve got me quiver all lined up in the rack ready for the next swell. Bring it on !!