SHOT-SHOT, PROPER-LIKE!

Posted by Sean Doherty in Photos,World Tour
Wet rails in the quarters. //Shorty

Wet rails in the quarters. //Shorty

With a hangover that would stop a lion, we catch up with Joel after a heavy night celebrating his win at the 2009 Billabong Pro J-Bay.

A tired and emotional human being this morning?
Definitely tired. And hungry too. I didn’t really get a chance to eat amongst all the celebrations yesterday. I got a slice of pizza off Deano and that was about it.

He’s not renowned as someone who shares his food.
Well he had 14 pieces and I got one.

Getting a slice of pizza off Deano was harder than winning the contest.
True.

Talk us through last night.
Good celebrations. It was pretty cruisey. We didn’t really go anywhere, just up to Cheron’s place with a whole heap of crew. A couple of beers and a couple of bottles of red and a wobbly walk home. I lost my bearing a little bit but I managed to navigate the path in the dark with my iPhone torch.

Were you aware that when you won yesterday, it was one day short of 10 years since you last won here at J-Bay?
I was aware, yeah. We’ve had the poster from 10 years ago stuck on the fridge inside since I got here as a bit of a motivational thing.

Does it seem like a long time ago?
It does. It makes me feel old. This time around I definitely have a better appreciation for winning here though. Back then I didn’t realise what a challenge it is to win here. It’s taken me 10 years to do it again, so this time it’s a little sweeter.

Did you channel anything from your first win into the campaign this year?
There was no real channelling. A few of the heat strategies maybe, but I didn’t dwell on the feeling of having won here before. But there were a couple of little weird omens that happened. My first wave I rode in the contest 10 years ago was a 9.4, and this year the first wave I rode was a 9.4, the identical score. Probably getting a little too deep on that one. But I woke up yesterday morning in the dark at six o’clock and the first thing I saw was a shooting star. Then when the sun came out there was a giant cloud there shaped exactly like a tuna. I don’t wanna get too weird but I believe in that stuff. They were good omens. I knew it was going to be a good day.

It seemed like you didn’t really break stride at all during the contest; your first wave every heat was a keeper and you didn’t look back from there. The whole thing looked, well, kinda easy.

It wasn’t easy, I can tell you that. But I went out with a game plan, my plan-A for J-Bay that works whenever there are good waves. Luckily for me there were good waves. They were easily the best waves I’ve ever had at J-Bay, just ridiculous how perfect it was on that second last day.

You seemed to be in really good rhythm with that wave.
For sure. If you’re in this contest and you’re not too sure about how to surf this wave you just have to watch Shaun Holmes. Watch him out there; he’s amazing. He’s knows when to turn and where to turn and he does these turns that just look effortless because he knows how to read the wave so well. I’ve studied his surfing out here a lot.

Your two 10s…
That first one was one of the best waves I’ve ever had. When I spoke to my Dad back at home afterwards I said, “Have you seen the 10?” He hadn’t, so he went and watched it on the heats on demand. He’s rung me up yesterday morning. I’m asleep and hungover like you wouldn’t believe, and he goes, “You’re kidding! That’s the best wave you’ve ever caught son!”

I spoke to Gally (Damo Hobgood’s coach) after the final and he goes, “the only thing I told Damo was that even if it meant he had to paddle Joel around to Boneyards, he couldn’t give him the inside on that first set.” You caught the first wave from under Damo’s nose and it won you the final.
Yeah, Damo was trying to push me deeper. At J-Bay you can get sucked into sitting out too far, and I just hugged the inside. Damo paddled out to that wave and I paddled across and inside. It was a late drop and as soon as I stood up I thought I might have been too deep and I wasn’t going to make the section. But the wind had swung southerly just before the final and that wind can help drive you down the line. I got around the section and it was just a perfect wave after that.

It was a good result not only with you winning, but all of the other guys behind you in the ratings tanked pretty early. Was it hard to shut that out as it was happening around you?
Yeah, I had to keep slapping myself whenever it started creeping into my mind, and I have to keep thinking like that for the rest of the year.

That board you won the final on is doing a bit of business for you this year.
Yeah, the Golden Child, it’s won me three contests, 120 grand, and I’ve had a few 10s on it, so it’s definitely got something going on.

It was sitting in the competitor’s area yesterday and some guy picked it up and you could hear Louie growling.
Yeah, he’s pretty protective of it. Louie won’t let me freesurf it or go anywhere near it. I’ve been surfing heats on it all year, but surfing it out here at J-Bay it seemed to developed some new spark again, some new characteristics.

The house you were staying in with Occ, Luke and Wes has had some fun moments this trip.
It’s a great household, and with Occ there you’ve always got something hilarious going on. But it was also a good place to base myself out of for the contest. We didn’t have the Internet here so we didn’t know what was going on with the contest. We don’t hear the PA from here. We’re close enough to see it but we couldn’t hear scores or anything, which was good. That kind of stuff can be draining. Here you don’t have the vibe of the contest and I could be relaxed and just in my own little world.

You’ve got six weeks off now, switching out of contest mode?
I started talking about Trestles late yesterday and we said that’s the only talk we’re going to have about it for the next month. I’m stoked on what’s happened, but in the bigger scheme of things there’s still a long way to go. Winning here, the ratings points are good, but it was also a real confidence boost for me to go forward and win the title. Am I stuttering? I’ve had two beers and I think I’m drunk.

Between wining the contest and the waves you guys got, it’s got to rate as one of your best wins?
It is definitely a special win. It’s one contest I’ve wanted to win again. It’s a special contest to win, and for me it’s a big step forward to achieving what I want. Thinking about it puts a smile on my face, for sure.

And your 1999 trophy made a mystery reappearance yesterday?
Yep, the trophy found its way home yesterday. It had been out the back at Billabong just dust collecting, and I wrote it off years ago and didn’t think much of it. It turned up at my Mum’s place yesterday courtesy of Bushy Mitchell. Thanks, Bush. It was 10 years ago today that I won it, and yesterday the trophy finally made its way back home.



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KILPATRICK BEACH

Posted by Parko in Photos,World Tour

Joel squeaking through a little tunnel down the coast. //Shorty

Devil wind all day on the point at J-Bay, so we jumped in the car and went for a drive. Me, Louie, Occ and Wes found this cool little beachie down the coast where the wind was perfect offshore. It was only three foot but nice and hollow, lefts and rights, and it reminded me a lot of the north coast. Taj, Dayyan, Otto and Phil Macca showed up not long after, and we all got a few little pits.

Talk of a swell hitting Monday and the contest running straight through, so everyone is starting to psych.



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THE J-BAY GROOVE

Posted by Parko in Photos,World Tour

The view from my backyard looking up to Supertubes. //Shorty

I feel like I’m back in a country where I feel comfortable. Brazil is such a full-on country, and to come from here to J-Bay it feels like my second home. I can’t really feel myself or feel relaxed in Brazil, whereas here, I could live here, I could do months here.

We’ve been doing a lot of flying. So sick of planes. We went Sydney-Joburg, Joburg-Sao Paulo, Sao Paulo-Florianopolis, then all the way back to Joburg then down to Port Elizabeth. But at least they’ve been mainly long flights. You just knock yourself out and go to sleep. Louie got crook from the flight back from Brazil. We were sitting 20 rows behind him and it was like a heatwave. I’m sitting with Bobby and he’s stripped down to his singlet and he’s all sweating. It was radically hot. Twenty rows in front and Louie has taken a couple of sleeping pills and knocked himself out. He wakes up hours later and his whole body has gone numb… he’s frozen solid! Couldn’t feel his hands or his feet. His section of the plane was freezing. Sure enough he gets to J-Bay and he’s crook as a dog. He gets on the lounge and stays there for three days, just floored him. He’s on the way back now. He’s set his bed up on the loungeroom floor and has been sitting there watching Top Gear and the cricket on telly.

We got a great little pad looking straight into the eye of the point at Supertubes. We’re not in the contest scene, but we’re aware of it cause its only a two-minute walk. It’s nice and chilled. Me, Occ, Wes and Louie are staying here, we’ve got a sick little barbie pit and we’ve been firing that up every night, having a braai every night, cooking a lot of dead animal, just living the African lifestyle.

My first surf on the point felt so good. So good. It was one-to-two foot J-Bay, pretty much just two or three guys out, pretty terrible, but it was still better than any wave I had in Brazil. It’s a way better shape, it’s faster down the line. I was enjoying going fast so much I wasn’t even really turning.

The sand out here is unbelievable at the moment. The best I’ve ever seen it. It’s very close to small Kirra or Greenmount. The point is set up perfect for guys like Mick and Dean. Deano really stood out in the freesurf the other day, got one amazing tube. I didn’t get too many, I broke my board, but just seeing Deano surf and seeing how comfortable he looked and he easy he made it look, it gave me a huge confidence boost. If it’s looking like home for them, then it’s like home for me.

Occ is so psyched for his heat with Curren. He was talking about it this morning. Curren pulled out the old, “I’ve got a sore back,” and I said, “Occ, maybe he’s trying to bluff you, but maybe you’ve got to be wary of the injured warrior.” Hopefully they get good waves. Maybe every day before the comp starts, for 15 minutes, they should just put Occ and Tom out there on their own. Like playing Hells Bells every morning at Bells Beach, just to get everyone psyched for what’s about to happen. Can you imagine how sick that would be, psyching up for your heat watching Occy and Curren surf? No one is ever going to get sick of watching those guys.

I’ve only had a few waves each surf, been taking it pretty easy. This morning I only got one barrel, did a little air on it. But that got me feeling like I’m back, reminding me that I know this wave. It’s a wave where I don’t need to spend a week or two to tune up on it. One good wave and it all comes flooding back; the shape, the speed of it, the way it breaks. You can get so comfortable and confident on it so quickly, more so than any other wave. Chopes, or Bells even, it takes a whole week at least, but here at J-Bay one good wave and you’re back in the groove.



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