SELAMAT JALAN
Posted in Freestyling,Photos
I had a ball on the Bali rights last year... let's hope we score some swell this year. //Jason Childs
I’m dried out, I need to surf bad. I’ve got the shits with everything, I’m jumping at shadows. I need to surf. I’d even be happy to stand-up paddle that how desperate I am to surf. My body has not touched saltwater in three weeks. It’s the longest spell I’ve had out of the water since I was 22 and I did my knee. The toe that I cut in J-Bay just didn’t heal and ended up getting infected, so I was on the lounge and haven’t been able to surf since I got back from J-Bay. I’ve pretty much been losing my mind.
The toe has finally healed pretty well, the infection’s pretty much gone, I’m sweet which is good, cause I’m off to Bali tomorrow. Ready to surf my brains out. I’m hearing there’s been waves and its warm and I just can’t wait. I’ll just be freesurfing, hanging out, enjoying my surfing and relaxing. My whole last month was all contest contest contest, between Brazil and J-Bay, so I just cant’ wait to ride waves and not have to care whether I ride out of the wave or not. If I make it I make it, if I don’t I don’t. Heading over there with Louie and JS and our families, so we’re just gonna have some fun.
I’m really keen to try and surf some lefts as well. I was thinking about it the other day and I’ve hardly surfed lefts all year. All my best sessions have been rights, so I’m hoping we get some swell. Might even bump over to G-Land for a day or two if we can. See how it goes. I’m hearing it’s been pretty crowded over there in Bali, one of the busiest seasons ever, but I’m just that psyched on going.
I’ve got 12 new boards, eight for Bali and four new ones for Trestles. And then I’ve got a couple more boards to pick up when I get back for France. I’ll be ordering Hawaii boards soon! I will, hay? Geez, how quick’s this year going? August already… I’ll be ordering Hawaii boards soon.
5 COMMENTS
brad says:
August 10, 2009 at 3:30 amhey parko seems a long time but congrats on your form,we were at bells when they held it at woolamai and you rubbed my wife sarah’s pregnant belly and said we’ll have asurf one day buddy,well Jack is now 4 and was born the 10th of april,I told him the other day you were winning the asp and had the same birthday,his reply was “he’s my friend and he surfs with me”.
cheers mate good luck
Tom Veiga – Designer says:
August 10, 2009 at 7:49 amHello Parko
will shortly be intubated big waves again:)
track is good news for you as a surfer …
The site is very good …
Good luck
Tom Veiga – Designer
http://www.tomveiga.com
rafael says:
August 11, 2009 at 4:45 amGo Joel.
Go surf body!
Cheers from brazil.
lee-roy Emanuel says:
August 13, 2009 at 4:40 pmoh wat up?
congrats on your last 3 wins mate.
i know your grandma shes a cool lady,my grandpa used to look after her.
neway hope we can catch up one time?
love your surfin mate.
cheers lee-roy
istanbul kurye says:
August 23, 2011 at 6:15 pmdiş beyazlatma…
istanbul kurye…